“Here we come a-wassailing
Among the leaves so green;
Here we come a-wand’ring
So fair to be seen.”
For most of us ‘wassail’ is a word we know from a popular Christmas carol though there’s a good chance that most of us cannot explain what it is – and with good reason, as wassail has been mostly lost to history and time.
Come with me as we step back into a Dickens novel. Let’s walk the cobblestone streets to a boisterous tavern somewhere in 19th century England, and partake in the merrymaking with a mug full of hot and aromatic wassail.
The Storied History of Wassail
Wassail is a warm beverage steeped in ancient tradition. The Old English form was hál meant to “be healthful” or “be healthy.” It is a hot mulled cider mixed with brandy (sometimes dark spiced rum or sherry) and bobbing with baked sugared apples and oranges studded with cloves. Traditionally, wassail was mixed with tempered eggs and a piece of crispy toast floating gently on top.
It is from this celebratory wassail, with its buoyant toast, that we still raise our glasses in times of celebration to give a ‘toast.’ Think of that the next time you raise your glass!
The history of wassail is as long as it is varied. The earliest mention of wassail is in the pagan ritual of Apple Wassailing dating back to the English Middle Ages. This drinking ritual was to ensure a good apple harvest and would have occurred on the old Twelfth Night (January 17). The villagers would gather in the cider orchards with their hot wassail in hand, encircling the largest of the apple trees and they’d sing to ward off any evil spirits that might have otherwise threatened the harvest. They’d pour cider along the roots of the tree and place the toast from the wassail at the tree’s roots or tied to the branches in offering.
Preparing Wassail
The wassail recipe I’m sharing today is a combination of the many I have read and tried over the years. It will give you an idea of what traditional wassail is and how it is prepared – and from there you can personalize it to suit your taste. Wassail is meant to be boozy and aromatic. If it’s a little strong going down at first, then you’ve prepared it well.
Like everything, wassail has evolved over time. The ingredients varied based on region and became mostly associated with the Yuletide. Wassail bowls (sometimes holding 10 gallons of wassail!) were drank from with great fanfare while a song about the drink would be sung. We modern day goers are quite familiar with that song, too. Sing it with me, I know you know it:
“Here we come a-wassailing
Among the leaves so green;
Here we come a-wand’ring
So fair to be seen.Love and joy come to you,
And to you your wassail too;
And God bless you and send you a Happy New Year
And God send you a Happy New Year.”
History also shows wassail as the celebratory drink of choice to stave off the winter chill after a long day of wassailing, or caroling, door to door.
I love to imagine those before me who made this, simmering wassail in heavy cauldron-like pots over hot embers, preparing to take a bowl to the orchards or to imbibe after a festive day of wassailing. It’s the long and storied history of this mulled cider that appeals to me the most.
Every Christmas this beverage makes me want to channel my inner 19th century caroler complete with petticoat and bonnet, flitting from house to house, singing my best rendition of We Wish You a Merry Christmas and demanding that someone bring me some figgy pudding (…because, you know, I won’t go until I get some). After which, I’d warm-up by the fire with wassail in hand.
Wassail makes a great addition to any holiday party, or an old-fashioned christmas theme get-together, or just make it to enjoy with family and friends this winter. Wassail yields a lot and was meant to be shared with others in good cheer, so invite over your favorite company and raise your glass to toast the winter season!
I’d love to hear from you!
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Ingredients
- 4 apples cored
- Brown sugar as mush needed to fill the apples
- ½ cup water
- 2 oranges halved
- 20 whole cloves
- 5 cups apple cider
- 48 oz hard cider
- 1 cup brandy
- 1 tbsp ground ginger, or 1-inch piece fresh
- 1 tsp ground nutmeg
- 2 cinnamon sticks more for garnish, optional
- Toast, for serving optional
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 350 F. (177 C.)
- Core the apples until the seeds are removed, taking care not to accidentally go all the way through the apples. A melon baller works well for this.
- Lightly fill each apple with brown sugar, careful not to pack the sugar down, keep it loose and lightly fill to the top. Place the apples upright into a baking dish and pour the water into the bottom of the dish. Bake 40-45 minutes until the apples can be pierced with a fork, but not so soft that they are mushy and falling apart.
- In the meantime, stud the peel sides of the cut oranges with whole cloves, 5 cloves to each half.
- Pour the apple cider, hard cider, and brandy into a large non-reactive pot. An enameled French or Dutch oven would work well. Stir to combine. PRO TIP this vessel is also good for serving the wassail later as it will retain the heat well.
- Over low-medium heat gently stir in the spices and cinnamon sticks. Add the orange halves, cloves side down, not to worry though if they flip, the idea is to infuse the liquid with the essence of the cloves. Simmer gently for 1 hour. Do not let the contents boil, you'll risk evaporation or will create a syrupy consistency.
- Using a slotted spoon, remove the cinnamon sticks and oranges and set aside.
- Strain the wassail. If planning to serve in the cooking vessel, straining the wassail into another pot for a moment to make sure all the particles of cloves and spices are removed is helpful, then pour back into the cooking vessel.
- Gently add the baked apples. Tip them in, spilling them over, so their sweet sugar combines with the wassail and the hollowed cores of the apples fill with the warm beverage. Gently stir. Add back the cinnamon sticks (or garnish with new ones) and the orange halves.
- Serve in a mug or in punch-sized heat tolerant glasses. Top with a small piece of toast or a cinnamon stick, if desired.
- The baked apples are also delicious to enjoy after they've soaked up some of the aromatic wassail.
Notes
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