“…like the perfumed beans from the coffee stall on the market… a smoky, burned flavor that enters my mouth somehow and makes it water. There is a silver jug of the stuff on the counter, from which a vapor rises…” –Chocolat
I channel my inner Vianne Rocher when I prepare this magical molten elixir (if you’ve seen the movie Chocolat, you’ll understand). Cioccolata calda is an Italian hot chocolate – though I liken it more to a winter’s night potion, its warm swallow and intoxicating richness coursing into my soul.
A storied past
The history of sipping chocolate is long, dating back to the Aztecs somewhere around 450 BC. Cocoa seeds were a valuable spice, often used as currency, and considered a gift from the God of Wisdom. Of its many values, drinking chocolate was highly regarded as an aphrodisiac and often thought to give its drinker strength. It wasn’t until the 16th century, that the decadence of sipping hot chocolate arrived in Europe, becoming popular first among the ruling classes and then among the common people, typically with sugar added to cut the bitter spice.
I did not grow up with the magic that is cioccolata calda. The hot chocolate of my youth wasn’t always exceedingly rich, it was certainly sweet though, and many times it came in a powdery packet from the supermarket. I didn’t experience Italian drinking chocolate until my late 20’s in Tuscany. Ever since, when the winter temperatures drop and the freeze sets in, our thoughts of cioccolata calda awaken again and we conjure up new and exciting ways to savor it. Mostly, our preference includes a pinch of chili pepper, for a welcomed and subtle heat on a cold winter’s night.
Density
The essential factor you should look for when preparing cioccola calda is the density of the hot chocolate, it should veil and wrap the back of your spoon when stirred. It should be far thicker than modern hot chocolate, though not so thick that it cannot be poured. Over-cooking the hot chocolate will continue to thicken it, as will letting it sit out, so keep both in mind. I find it’s best to remove the mixture from the heat at the very moment just before it is perfect, and then let it sit for a minute off the heat to thicken ever more slightly. Gently stir again, then taste and savor slowly.
I’m giving you the base recipe I have been using for years, feel free to tweak it as you desire. Keep in mind that cioccolata calda is not intended to be sweet, in fact, most recipes you’ll find add just a bit of sugar or they omit it entirely, I prefer to add just a bit. You’ll also see recipes that call for corn starch or potato starch as a thickening agent, though I have found that adding chopped chocolate (always with 70% cocoa) feels more authentic, and will thicken the mixture just fine. Claudio Pistocchi, master Florentine chocolatier, agrees with the use of chopped chocolate as a thickener, and that settles any dispute for me.
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Ingredients
- 2 cups fresh whole milk
- 1 tbsp cocoa recommended Saco brand natural and Dutched blend
- 2 tbsp sugar
- Pinch fine sea salt
- 3 oz extra bittersweet dark chocolate (70% cocao), roughly chopped
- 1/4 tsp hot chili powder (optional)
Instructions
- Add the milk to a medium saucepan over low-medium heat. Allow the milk to warm almost to a boil. Add the cocoa, sugar and salt and whisk in a circular motion until fully dissolved, you’ll no longer feel the grainy bits of sugar at the bottom of the pan. Add the chopped chocolate and stir constantly until dissolved completely.
- The mixture will appear quite light and loose at this point. Bring the mixture to a low boil while constantly whisking, about 3 minutes more, only lowering the heat a bit if the mixture rises too high. The hot cocoa should be darker now and thick enough to coat and wrap the back of a spoon, but not so thick that it isn’t able to be poured. Remove from the heat.
- If using chili powder, add it now and stir to mix well. Serve hot!
Notes
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